I start with the horse in the stall, usually while it’s eating grain. Gently rub the point of the horses butt, beside the tail. Many horses will lift their tail at this point. If so, it’s an indication you can move a little quicker. If they clamp down instead, you will likely have to move slower.

Keep rubbing to see if the horse will lift the tail. Progress to the side of the tail and to the underside of the tail. Keep everything pleasant, if the horse clamps, back off. You might have to forcibly lift some tails to rub underneath, but the hope is that then the horse will calm down and enjoy it.

The end goal of this first session is for the horse to hopefully lift the tail by your actions or at least not resist if you have to lift the tail.

If this was difficult for the horse, take a break and try next feeding session or the next day. If no problem, cup the horses tail with one hand while still rubbing the side of the tail or point of butt with the other. The horse should leave the tail lifted.

When this is no problem, move on to working with the saddled horse. Clip the crupper to the crupper bar and unsnap the loop. Try to get a good estimate of the proper length of the crupper and set the buckle. The crupper should never start tight, nor should it be hanging onto the anus.

Make sure the horse is still calm with you fiddling around the tail. When the tail is comfortably lifted, gather up all the loose hairs and bring the crupper end under the tail. You are still holding the tail up at this point so that if he panics, you can remove the crupper. Most horses might start a little, but should calmly accept a soft crupper if they also accepted your hand. I recommend neoprene cruppers as they do not rub and are as soft as the horse`s tail skin.

If the horse is handling this well, go ahead and clip the loop in place – again making sure it’s not really tight or hanging too loose.

Walk the horse around a little. If he is clamping his tail and tucking his butt, rub the butt or tail a bit to see if that relaxes him. Walk around some more. This might be a good breaking point if it seems to be an issue. It is certainly a good idea to remove the crupper for a least a few minutes so the horse understands this is not a permanent fixture in his life!

Otherwise, continue on or start all over and work to this point in another session. If you have a round pen or longe line, ask the horse to walk around and if that goes well, to trot.

You will know when the horse has generally accepted the crupper when he trots with his tail in a normal or slightly elevated position (especially arabs). If possible, ask to canter.

Now it’s time to ride. Also start slow. Walk, trot and canter on the flat. Then move to some hills. I never do the first steep hill until I have cantered on the flat. Start with shallow hills, then work up to the steep ones. The crupper should neither be too tight or too loose - it will be most comfortable for the horse if it is actually doing it`s job rather than hanging loose.

Keep in mind that you do not want to overtighten the girth when using a crupper. If the position of the girth groove is part of what is moving the saddle forward, then it will be still forced to go forward if the girth is too tight. The girth only needs to be tight enough to mount and if your horse has no withers or is very round there are better saddle options if you are still needing to really crank the girth tight to mount.

I have taken as long as 3 days for this and gone as fast as 5 minutes with others. Just watch your horse and never allow it to become traumatic!

Good Luck!
© Marlene Moss, 2002